lee's locked bowline

If the style of climbing you enjoy most doesn’t involve regular falls (e.g. To commence climbing with a loose tie-in knot strongly implies recklessness and/or incompetence. And it is critically important to understand that there is nothing wrong with that fact – there is nothing sinister going on. The Great Outdoors Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for people who love being outdoors enjoying nature and wilderness, and learning about the required skills and equipment. Remember, folks – climbing is dangerous! Scotts locked Bowline is inherently secure and fit for purpose. The simple #1010 Bowline is not suitable for human fall-arrest purposes. I respect your input on this but I personally still see relevance in it. About See All (507) 472-8525. Stack Exchange network consists of 176 Q&A communities including Stack Overflow, the largest, most trusted online community for developers to learn, share their knowledge, and build their careers. It wasn’t intended for rock climbing. The same can’t be said for bowlines with their seemingly endless variations, and therefore the use of these knots to safeguard a fall carries a higher level of personal responsibility and risk for the user. Community See All. Is it acceptable to retrofit a new-work plastic electrical box by screwing through it into a stud? It’s also still fairly obscure at this point. That said, self-reliance is a key attribute in the sport of climbing, and those who are confident and practiced in tying a bowline should feel no reluctance in its use. That is, its often just the Guide + client and no one else. However, there is a significant risk for the knot. The first is when the tail works its way through the knot, either by cyclical loading, ring loading or slack shaking, all of which occur in varying amounts during climbing. Create New Account. How safe is the bowline knot in different situations? Of far greater importance is the competence and confidence the climber has in his/her own skills. Many modern climbers prefer one of its variants to the standard Bowline because they are supposed to address the disadvantages of the Bowline, especially the first one in the above-mentioned list. The Bowline is most commonly used for forming a fixed loop, large or small at the end of a line. Ryan, it appears that you have edited your original content – thus removing several glaring inaccuracies. If you are going to tie-in with 'a' Bowline - you should select and use one of the inherently secure Bowlines. The #1010 simple Bowline is NOT inherently secure. Product/Service. On the other hand, you might get the idea to use the bowline knot to create a sling, say to rappel down from a tree: This is wrong and if you rappel down from that carabiner you might get yourself killed, because the knot can slip when loaded “sideways”, pulling the main loop apart. The bowline knot is very safe if loaded correctly. I have to add that the Double Bowline (usually called "Bowline on the Bight") is not unsafe and is one of two "official recommended" Knots for tying in in most of Europe. Releasable knot to attach blocking device in slackline setup. This means that the bowline is not as good as the figure-8 to use to tie-in a climber, especially for multi-pitch climbing, gym climbing, etc... (That said, many good climbers do use the bowline to tie in.). If you’re committed to forming that same familiarity with a secure bowline variant, then there is no good reason you shouldn’t. On November 29, Yosemite climbing legend John Long was seriously injured in an accident at a Los Angeles gym when his bowline knot came undone. Should we ban screw-gate carabiners? 4. In this (untied off) form the knot is unsafe as there is a strong chance of slippage. Scotts locked Bowline is inherently secure and is fit for purpose in climbing applications. And that’s perfectly fine because the #1010 simple Bowline wasn’t intended for climbers! Conscious competence; and 2. Which mid-line knot is best suited for a trucker's hitch? I doubt if Edwards Bowline is widely used in the UK, let alone outside (n.b., the name comes from the Cornish climbing legend, the Edwards). Gommers observed that the collar of the End Bound Single Bowline (EBSB) was able to be manipulated under 10kN of force, which is to say that you can place a metric ton of force on the knot and still shift the collar by hand. More importantly, I know well, based on my own experience, even the well-set correct Yosemite Bowline can get loose during a course of a day. It also really does seem to just fall apart with cyclic loading on one of my ropes. The second is through rupture or failure of the nipping loops. About as strong under ideal circumstances, Can come untied on their own when unloaded. Do you realize that you are circulating misinformation into the public domain? My conclusion is as follows. Leave it with me and I will see if I can uncover anything useful! I'm going to try and find recommendations from link-able authorities, but its a little complicated because most "authorities" are either books I don't have with me, are groups like the AMGA, which don't put a lot of information free online. You have completely missed the key underlying issue! Reply: I had given links to various papers on Bowlines and knots in general. You mentioned this in passing towards the end, but I’ve not heard of it being studied in detail – how vulnerable are the different tie-in knots to misidentification/incorrect tying? But it’s not a perfect world, and although I don’t think people should shy away from perfecting their own knots, many climbers (myself included) wouldn’t be able to check the efficacy of someone else’s bowline variant beyond a shadow of a doubt. When I read such articles, I laugh inwardly at the poor level of understanding by the content writer. — Quest for climbing without avoidable risks, Submitted by masa on Wed, 2017-08-02 21:57. It might even be worth highlighting that this process is still useful and should always be kept up, even when you don’t know your partner’s knot. He’s done plenty of trad climbing and El Cap climbing, you can’t dismiss him as a single pitch sport climber. The answer is the same as with many climbing conundrums – it depends. I agree with you in one point; if it is properly cinched tight, it is OK, but only while that orientation is being kept. Yosemite Bowline knot has served me well so far. Perhaps you could rephrase the question as "is the bowline appropriate for 'sideways' loading of the main loop?". It was invented/discovered by sailors and it is perfectly fine for use on a sailing vessel. Yosemite Bowline has a follow through of the rope-end via the knot itself. Once the rope end comes undone, what will happen when loaded is obvious, as demonstrated near the end in my video. I am not convinced (a single seemingly non-scientific experiment does not tell much anyway). Agreed. What's the "Yosemite backup"? Web page addresses and e-mail addresses turn into links automatically. This is a very consistent and solid method to get the nipping loop set up. The fact does cast some doubt over its reliability. If you are going to select and use a 'Bowline' for life critical applications, you should select a type that is 'inherently secure'. Note that they all are to some extent more awkward to dress (or set) the knot properly, and hence the caution in tying is still essential.

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